The Naked Mountain

Reinhold Messner is famous for many firsts: First to climb all fourteen 8000-meter peaks; first to summit Everest (with Peter Habeler) without supplementary oxygen, first to solo Everest. Nine of these, however, equals the drama of his first summit: 8000-meter peak Nanga Parbat. Thirty-two years later, Messner is still haunted by the events of June, 1970. While others on the expedition retreated, Reinhold Messner went for the summit, leaving his brother, Gunther, behind with the team photographer. Some hours later found that Gunther had followed him. The two reached the summit but Gunther developed altitude sickness; he was incapable of descending the technically-challenging route they had taken in reaching the summit. They became separated during the descent via the Diamir Flank, and when Reinhold returned to where he had left Gunther, his brother was gone. Back at basecamp, ugly accusations were exchanged between members of the expedition and a court battle followed in Germany. In this new book Reinhold Messner revisits this most painful period in his life, reviewing his own actions and blaming others for the way things turned out on Nanga Parbat.